Storing fruits and vegetables can be a little tricky, if not stored properly, taste and texture can change. Store fruits and vegetables in separate drawers in your refrigerator, ethylene can build up and spoil you food.
Vegetables
Store unwashed = Green Beans, Peas, Corn, Radishes, Green onions, Cauliflower and Broccoli, mushrooms,
Asparagus and Herbs= wash, dry and cut the ends. They can be store two ways, either wrap in a moist towel and stored in a plastic bag or place in a glass of water with the top covered to keep moist.
Vidalia onions= should be individually wrapped in paper towel or aluminum foil.
Tomatoes= stored unwashed and at room temperature.
Eggplant = can spoil quickly and should be used in a couple days of purchase.
Sweet potatoes = are delicate and should only be kept about a week.
Carrots = peel right be before use, they can be stored peeled but color, texture and taste will change quickly.
Mushrooms= only clean directly before use.
Lettuce= wash and dry well, dry with a towel or salad spinner
Fruits
Melons= stored in the refrigerator can turn rubbery and lose flavor.
Rhubarb= wrap in plastic before storing.
Berries= can be very delicate, wash gently before using
Lemons & Limes= will last longer at room temperature, if you store them in the refrigerator they will absorb odors from the refrigerator
The following are caring and storage tips that may help.
| Refrigerate |
Countertop |
Cool Dry Place |
| All Berries |
Apples |
Acorn squash |
| Artichokes |
Cantaloupe |
Butternut squash |
| Apples |
Bananas |
Eggplant |
| Asparagus |
Basil |
Mushrooms |
| Beets |
Cucumbers |
Onions |
| Blackberries |
Garlic |
Potatoes |
| Blueberries |
Ginger |
Pumpkins |
| Broccoli |
Grapefruit |
Root vegetables |
| Brussels sprouts |
Lemons |
Spaghetti squash |
| Cabbage |
Limes |
Sweet potatoes |
| Carrots |
Oranges |
Yams |
| Cauliflower |
Papayas |
|
| Celery |
Peppers |
|
| Cherries |
Persimmons |
|
| Corn |
Pineapples |
|
| Grapes |
Plantains |
|
| Green beans |
Pomegranates |
|
| Herbs |
Watermelon |
|
| Leeks |
|
|
| Lettuce |
|
|
| Mango |
|
|
| Okra |
Ripen then Refrigerate |
|
| Peas |
Avocados |
|
| Plums |
Kiwi |
|
| Peaches |
Mangos |
|
| Radishes |
Nectarines |
|
| Spinach |
Peaches |
|
| Sprouts |
Pears |
|
| Summer squash |
|
|
| Vidalia onions |
|
|
| Yellow squash |
|
|
| Zucchini |
|
|
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Carpet is often criticized for various reasons. few of the allegations stand up to even the most basic scientific scrutiny and common sense prevails when they are examined closely. I will discuss several of these issue, but first a few words of explanation are in order.
Popular beliefs are heavily influenced by stories in the media. It is impossible to deal with the complexities of the world in a few paragraphs. Further, the popular media tends to sensationalize rather than educate, the results being that emotions usually overrides logic.
Medical professionals and toxicologists know well that exposure is the key to any adverse effect. Exposure in the medical sense is different from commonly held belief; it means the material is taken into the body in a quantity sufficient to cause harm. If the material is either isolated or incapable of being transported into the body, no exposure occurs. Likewise, the body easily tolerates surprising amounts of many materials, especially for short periods.
The real issue is risk than hazards, Hazard is the capability to cause harm. Risk incorporates both hazards and exposure. While a substance may be highly hazardous, risk may be very low or nonexistent if exposure is low or impossible. We must learn to think in terms of risk in order to understand any discussion of health effects for carpet or any other materials.
1. Carpet effect on allergies and asthma. it is often alleged that carpet have an adverse effect on those persons who suffer from allergies and asthma. This is based on the fact that carpet accumulates all manner of small particles, and examination of this”soil load” reveals materials that can indeed exacerbate symptoms. The implication becomes ” it is present, therefore it is bad”.
When looked at in a slightly different perspective, the picture changes dramatically. If the contaminants are in the carpet they are not in the air, and no exposure occurs, therefore risk is low. this has been shown in numerous studies worldwide. A very recent German study of 200 homes showed airborne levels of microscopic particles to be hungdred of times lower in carpeted room compared to those with hard surface floors.
This is confirmed by common sense. One study showed that it takes 10 times the air speed to dislodge a microscopic particle from carpet compared to a hard surface. We must accept that soils will enter the building by foot traffic and air flow. Carpet begins trapping these particles near the door, and levels of soil declines rapidly futher into the building.
Clearly, there is a limit to how much soil a carpet can hold. think of it as a reservoir, which can hold water until full, then overflows. Managing the soil level is best accomplished by vacuuming. The machine used is very important in successful soil management. More about vacuuming later.
In the next issue of the Monitor, we will discuss anti-allergen carpet treatments.
Carey Mitchell, Technical Director Shaw Industries, SCRT Board of Directors
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Posted by nightowl on Feb 21, 2012 in Residential Carpet Cleaning | Comments Off
The following information was furnished by the American Textile Manufacturers Institute Inc. The same material has been reprinted by many carpet mills, trade journals and medical journals. Even though it was first printed in 1982, the number of complaints continues to multiply. We are making the information available to all production department staff in the form of a bulletin. All members should make sure their employees read and discuss the contents.
Spots, stains and discoloration of carpets, upholstery and most other textile products have been with us for as long as these products themselves. Ordinary dirt and grease spots which occur with food spills and normal use can usually be removed without damage if treated promptly or submitted to a professional cleaner.
However, another, more serious, kind of stain is appearing with increasing frequency and is different from ordinary stains. This type of discoloration is caused by a variety of chemical ingredients contained in dozens of common household products.
We live in a world of chemicals. But unfortunately, some of the characteristics of household chemical products that make them the most useful to us are the same qualities that lead to trouble when these products are carelessly used.
Most of us are aware of the danger of leaving such things as medications, household cleaners, insecticides, polishes and bleaches where children can get to them. However, many people do not realize that these same products frequently contain ingredients which can cause irreparable damage to valuable carpets, rugs, upholstery fabrics and other household furnishings if they are spilled or allowed to come in contact with them.
Basically, there are two types of spots that can appear on home furnishings textile materials.
The first type of spot is the common stain which occurs when food is spilled or ordinary dirt or oily substance is tracked in. These spots are usually immediately apparent and action can be taken to remove them without damage to the carpet or upholstery fabric.
In these cases, professional cleaners, the product manufacturer or retailer can be consulted for care information. Also, various manufacturers have published carpet and rug care guides which deal with regular care and common stain problems. These are available either from the fiber producers or the manufacturer. You can also consult your county extension agent.
The second type of stain or discoloration of carpets and home furnishings fabrics is the so-called chemical stain. More insidious than the common stain, the chemical stain is caused by the introduction of the foreign substance to the surface of the textile product which
actually changes or destroys the dye. The time between the contact and appearance of the stain could be days or months. Generally, nothing can restore the dye to its original color.
Some of the more common chemical products known to cause problems include medications, certain cosmetics, all household bleaches, disinfectants, furniture polish, certain plant foods, fertilizers and insecticides. One fiber manufacturer has estimated the number of household products which can cause stains or spots on the home furnishings products to be in excess of 50 {likely more since 1st counted in 1980}.
The mechanism by which these spots appear varies with different types of chemicals, environmental conditions and the particular textile products involved.
For example, spots can appear suddenly with no apparent history of contact with a known injurious substance. Chemicals can lie dormant until a change in humidity, temperature, moisture or sunlight occurs to activate the chemical reaction. This delayed action causes the spots to seem to appear spontaneously.
Relatively high humidity, for example is necessary for bleaching action to begin. Similarly, many chemical agents require wetness to trigger reaction. This means that discoloration could result shortly after a textile product is cleaned, with a professional cleaner falsely suspected of being the cause.
The question may properly be asked, “Why don’t carpet manufacturers use better dyes that will resist chemical reactions?” The fact is that dyestuffs in use today represent the best that modern technology can produce. Dyestuffs used in the textile industry are considered one of the major achievements of the textile technology in this century. Yet, there are still few known dyes which are resistant to chemical degradation. Such dyes have limited application and restricted choice of colors.
Since there are few known dyes which will resist chemical attack, and manufacturers cannot prevent their products from coming into contact with these substances, chemical spots and stains are not covered under most manufacturers’ warranties.
From the consumer’s point of view, the only real solution to prevention of the chemical spots and stains is careful use of the offending chemical products. By identifying the particulars product, one can take precautions to prevent further contamination.
This is not always easy because many of these products do not publish a list of ingredients. Whether it would serve any purpose if they did is questionable because the concentration of the products used or the combination of the chemicals within the product can affect what it will do to a carpet or other household textile products.
The list of generic products published here is not a complete list nor is this report intended to be a criticism or indictment of any product. Our purpose is to enable consumers to identify products which can cause damage to textile products if they are spilled or allowed to come in contact with them.
ACNE MEDICATIONS AND SKIN CREAMS AND FOOT CARE
Many consumers’ products have been introduced over the last few years which contain benzoyl peroxide as an active ingredient. These products include acne medications, fade or age creams, some foot care preparations and some pet shampoos.
Benzoyl peroxide is a strong oxidizing and/or bleaching agent which is capable of destroying most dyes used in carpet and upholstery fabrics. Other textiles such as pillowcases, sheets, towels and clothing may also be affected. Manufacturers have estimated that a high percent of unidentifiable spots on carpets can be attributed to this chemical.
Spots caused by benzoyl peroxide may appear hours, days or months after the contamination depending on the temperature and the humidity. This means that the original source of the spill could have been long forgotten by the time the spot appears.
An additional problem with this chemical is that compounds containing benzoyl peroxide are not water soluble. That is, they are difficult to wash off hands or face so that while people believe the substance has been washed off, it really has not.
Most benzoyl peroxide spots begin orange or dark yellow depending on the dyestuff used. As time progresses they will get lighter in yellow color as the oxidation process continues. On blue carpets, however, these spots may appear slightly pinkish or white. In some cases the spot may appear to be yellow with an orange halo around it, moving toward yellow as the spot grows.
BLEACHES
Most people are aware that misuse of household bleaches on colored fabric will likely remove the color as well as stubborn stains. However, accidental spills on carpets and upholstery fabrics are equally damaging.
Chlorine bleaches (sodium hypocholorite} are the most universally used. So-called “all-fabric” bleaches (oxygen bleach) can also cause bleaching and dye bleeding, although slower acting. Swimming pool chemicals (calcium hypochlorite} tracked into the home can bleach carpets and rugs. Also, most mildew stoppers contain bleach and will affect textiles if used improperly.
Spots caused by chlorine products are generally yellow. However, chlorine will cause some red dyestuffs to turn green.
ACIDS AND ALKALIS
As little as 1 percent of hydrochloric acid in solution can cause pink or orange spots in carpet. Stomach acid is essentially 10 percent hydrochloric acid. This means that vomit can cause permanent spots on carpets and upholstery if not promptly removed and or neutralized.
Some toilet bowl cleaners contain as much as 10 percent hydrochloric acid. Corn and callous removers contain phosphoric and glacial acetic acid. Tile cleaners also contain acid which can cause color changes as do certain foot preparations. Hydrochloric acid can cause some red dyestuffs to turn bright blue.
Strong alkaline substance are equally damaging when they come in contact with carpets and others textile products. The active ingredient in most drain cleaners is sodium hydroxide {lye}. Oven cleaners get their cleaning power from sodium hydroxide. Strong alkalis will destroy the fabric itself, as well as cause spots and stains.
URINE STAINS
Urine from children and pets can cause permanent stains to carpet and upholstery fabrics if not promptly removed. The characteristic ammonia-like odor of urine will be replaced by a musty odor. Spots caused by urine may be dull yellow or even red.
PLANT FOODS AND FERTILIZER
Spills of some liquid plant foods or leakage from house plants can cause color change in carpet. Spots of this kind usually develop near the backing and progress upward through the pile to the surface. Stains of this type may not be apparent for months. Spots are usually dull yellow in color. May also be a bright greenish blue due to nitrogen in fertilizer.
INSECTICIDES
Some pesticides can cause discoloration of carpet. Most often named are malathion, diazinon, DDVP{dischlorovinyl dimethyl phosphate}.These chemicals can cause fading around baseboards when spray is directed to the carpet instead of the baseboard.
FURNITURE POLISH
Chemicals in furniture polish can act as a catalytic agent, destroying red carpet dyes and creating green or bluish discoloration. On carpet this usually occurs around the base of a piece of furniture and can remain hidden until the furniture is relocated.
PHENOLS
This class of chemicals is used in disinfectants and germicides. Bathroom cleaners, many of which come in concentrated liquid form, may contain this chemical. Some phenols have been known to cause carpet to fade.
HOW TO IDENTIFY CHEMICAL SPOTS AND STAINS
The following suggestions may be helpful in identifying the cause of chemical spots and stains on carpets and other textile products:
1. Where is the spot located in the house? In teenagers’ rooms on towels, bed sheets, carpets and clothing, one would suspect acne medications containing benzoyl peroxide. Green discoloration along baseboards suggests insecticides. In the living or dining room where houseplants are kept, it would be leakage from pots containing food. Or, if around the base of furniture, it could be contamination from furniture polish. The important thing is to isolate the cause of the spot and take whatever steps are necessary to prevent future exposure.
- Was the chemical substance spilled or tracked onto the carpet from some other area of
the house? The pattern of the stain indicates how it happened. Spills often resemble
explosions. They are generally larger in diameter near the backing than on the surface.
- Does the spot have an odor? If the spot smells different from the rest of the carpet, it
is obvious that a foreign substance is present. The odor can be a clue to its identity.
4. What color are the spots? Different chemicals react differently colors and dyestuffs. As we have already noted, they even react differently under various climatic conditions. In general, red spots on tan or beige carpet may suggest strong acids. Yellow indicates reactions by strong oxidizers or bleaches. Green or blue may indicate sunlight along with catalyst. Rare dye spots which are caused in the mill are always darker, never lighter, than the background.
Generally speaking, once a textile product has been chemically stained, there is no cleaning that can be done either by the individual or professional cleaner to restore the material to its original color and condition. However, by identifying the source of contamination, steps can be taken to prevent further contamination from the same cause. Also, by showing proper respect for household chemicals and treating them with due caution, the homeowner can prevent spots from occurring in the first place.
American Textile Manufacturers Institute – October 21, 1982
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Posted by nightowl on Jan 20, 2012 in Residential Carpet Cleaning | Comments Off
WD-40, ask anyone, if they use WD-40 the answer not only yes, but you will get stories and different way to use it.
The following are facts and stories and tips on how to use WD-40.
Water Displacement Project#40
The product began from a search for a rust preventative solvent and degreaser to protect missile parts. WD-40 was created in 1953 by three technicians at the San Diego Rocket Chemical Company. Its name comes from the project that was to find a “water displacement’ compound. They were successful with fortieth formulation, thus WD-40. The Corvair Company bought it in bulk to protect their atlas missile parts. Ken East (one of the original founders) says there is nothing in WD-40 that would hurt you.
I had a neighbor who had brought a new pickup. I got up very early one Saturday morning and saw that someone had spray painted red all around the sides of this beige truck (for some unknown reason). I went over, woke him up, and told him the bad news. He was very upset and was trying to figure out what to do, probably nothing, until Monday morning, since nothing was open. Another neighbor came out and told him to get WD-40 and clean it off. It removed the unwanted paint beautifully and did not harm his paint job that was on the truck.
When you read the ‘shower door’ part try it. It’s the first thing that has ever cleaned that spotty shower door. If yours is plastic, it works just as well as glass. The try it on your stovetop… Voila! It’s now shinier than it’s ever been. You’ll be amazed…
- Protects silver from tarnishing.
- Removes road tar and grime from cars
- Cleans and lubricates guitar strings.
- Gives floors that “just-waxed” sheen without making it slippery.
- Keeps flies off cows.
- Restored and cleans chalkboards.
- Removes lipstick stains
- Loosens stubborn zippers
- Untangles jewelry chains
- Removes stains from stainless steel sinks
- Removes dirt and grime from barbecue grills
- Keeps ceramic/terra cotta garden pots from oxidizing
- Removes tomato stains from clothing
- Keeps glass shower doors free of water spots
- Camouflages scratches in ceramic and marble floors
- Keeps scissors working smoothly
- Lubricates noisy door hinges on vehicles and doors in homes
- It removes black scuff marks from the kitchen floors.
- Removes bug guts and protects the finish of your car.
- Gives a child’s play gym slide a shine for a super fast slide
- Lubricates gear shift and mower deck lever for ease of handling on riding mowers.
- Rids rocking chairs and swings of squeaky noises.
- Lubricates tracks in sticking home windows and makes them easier to open
- Spaying an umbrella stem makes it easier to open and close
- Restores and cleans padded leather dashboards in vehicles, as well as vinyl bumpers
- Restores and cleans roof racks on vehicles
- Lubricates and stops squeaks in electric fans
- Lubricates wheel sprockets on tricycles, wagons and bicycles for easy handling
- Lubricates fan belts on washers and dryers and keeps them running smoothly
- Keeps rust from forming on saws and saw blades and tools
- Removes splattered grease on stoves
- Keeps bathroom mirror from fogging
- Lubricates prosthetic limbs
- Keeps pigeons off the balcony (they hate the smell)
- Removes all traces of duct tape
- Folks even spray it on their arms, hands, and knees too relieve arthritis pain
- Florida’s favorite use is ‘clean and removes love bugs from grills and bumpers.’
- Removes ink from carpet
- Wd-40 attracts fish- Spray a little on live bait or lures and you will be catching the big one in no time, Also it’s a lot cheaper than the chemical attractants that are made for just that purpose. Keep in mind though using some chemical laced bait or lures for fishing are not allowed in some states.
- Use it for fire ant bites. It takes the sting away immediately, and stops the itch.
- WD-40 is great for removing crayon from walls. Spray on mark and wipe with a rag.
- Also, if you discover that your teenage daughter has washed and dried a tube of lipstick with a load of laundry; saturate the lipstick spots with WD-40 and wash. Presto! Lipstick is gone.
- If you spray WD-40 on the distributor cap, it would displace the moisture and allow the car to start.
- If you are working on a car and your hands are greasy, spray hands liberally with WD-40 and work it in well and then use a rag to wipe away the grease- work great every time!
- The favorite use in the state of New York WD-40 protects the Statue of Liberty from the elements
The basic ingredient is FISH OIL.
How do you use WD-40?
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Posted by nightowl on Jan 10, 2012 in Residential Carpet Cleaning | Comments Off
It’s that time of year again. Freezing weather, snow and ice building up on roof, weather changes thawing and freezing, and ultimately, ice dams can form.
Ice dams begin to form after significant snow fall when either the heat from a poorly insulated home is applied to portions of the underside of roof decking, or simply when the weather outside warms up for a few hours and melts some of the snow. Melting snow and water runs down the roof, only to be frozen again at the unheated portion of the eaves, or when the sun goes down and the temperature drops. The partially melted snow and water pools, then freezes and an ice dam forms with the overflow or seepage creating icicles. Since heat entering the attic rises to the peak, the eaves of the structure remain colder and the ice dam can’t melt to allow water to run off the roof . With repeated thaw and re-freeze cycles, the ice dam problem builds and considerable water is trapped or pooled at the eaves or the base of valleys While in a liquid state, the water seeps under shingles and tar paper (roofing felt) designed to protect the roof system from water intrusion. Eventually, the water seepage saturates plywood decking around the eaves and it wicks upward until large portions of the decking become water saturated.
To complicate the problem, as the damp plywood roof decking warms up, due to direct sunlight or warmer weather, the increased temperature causes microbial growth on the wood decking to abound. Since the decking material is hidden in the attic, mold growth often goes unnoticed until sensitive persons begin experiencing allergic reactions or distress. Often, an insurance company becomes involved, since the problem, while usually not sudden, certainly is unexpected.
The problem may even be compounded when misguided homeowners block soffit vents to keep the cold air out of attic or garage areas. This practice prevents the ventilation and air movement needed keep the roof decking uniformly cold, and to evaporate moisture from wood decking. Moreover, it may create the stagnant air conditions that encourage mold growth and amplification.
In some cases, structure owners will notice water collecting on ceilings or running down interior walls causing dampness or discoloration of drywall. In other cases, water can run through wall framing and pool along the edges of or underneath hard or soft flooring (particularly carpet and pad) and go unnoticed for days or weeks.
To prevent ice dams and related water damage, in colder climates the best solution is to keep the roof uniformly cold to prevent ice melt, by providing ventilation from soffit vents to a ridge vent that runs along the entire length of the roof line. Some roofing contractors may install a three-foot-wide, non-porous plastic material along the eaves in lieu of traditional roofing felt. Typically, this material is installed around the perimeter of the roof as the first course, and in valleys and around chimneys, where ice dams are likely to occur. Then, when ice dams form and pooled water seeps under shingles, in all but the most severe cases, it is prevented from contacting roof decking materials.
Another alternative is to install heating panels or cables around the eaves or other snow collection points on the roof. When activated during freezing weather, this heating system melts snow and ice at the eaves, and allows for continuous water runoff. The downside is that heating coils may cause shingles to deteriorate faster, or the coils themselves may block snow to form an ice dam farther up the roof.
Lacking these construction practices, about the only thing that property owners can do is to monitor the snow buildup on roofs and physically remove it to prevent ice dams from forming. However, this can be a difficult and dangerous task that may be best performed by experienced professionals
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